Angels on Horseback

"Angels on horseback" is the fanciful name given to a type of hot hors d’oeuvre in which oysters are wrapped in bacon strips, skewered and broiled. They were popular in Victorian England as an after-dinner snack but have since become a common appetizer served at upscale parties, weddings and other types of gatherings. They occasionally are served on toast points, which are crustless triangles of buttered and toasted bread, but they most often are presented simply on their own to be eaten directly from the skewer.

During the 1890s both British and American cookbooks published recipes for angels on horseback, including, of course, Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management.

The name itself, “angels on horseback,” is believed to be derived from its classic appearance when the bacon edges curl up after broiling, remotely resembling the upturned wings of angels.

Shucked oysters usually are first marinated in a combination of white wine and garlic for several hours. They are then patted dry, seasoned with salt and pepper, then carefully wrapped in a flattened piece of bacon or sometimes only half a bacon strip, depending on the size of the oyster. Secured with a toothpick, they can be prepared ahead of time and kept covered and refrigerated until ready to broil. Only a few minutes per side under the broiler are required to crisp the bacon before serving.

Another recipe, Devils on Horseback, is a cousin to Angels on Horseback. The early recipes for devils on horseback contained cayenne pepper, curry paste, English mustard or other hot spices. Food cooked in a fiery hot sauce is often referred to as devilled because of the connection between the devil and the excessive heat of hell. Some early recipes use strongly flavoured fish (sardines, anchovies) which are skinned and sprinkled with cayenne pepper, then wrapped in bacon and grilled.

Today Devils on Horseback are made with dates or prunes. It seems the fish version lost popularity during the early 20th century and the prune rolled in bacon replaced it. During the 1920s the prune was stuffed with chutney and an almond or sometimes just an almond, but always with some form of devilling, usually cayenne pepper. In the 1950s, recipes for devils again became popular, but without the devilling.

Here is an early description of Angels on Horseback published in Aberdeen Weekly Journal in 1800:

“All frequenters of London restaurants know, I suppose, the pleasant little dish called “Angels on Horseback”, sometimes transformed into “Devils.” I find them extremely agreeable with brown bread and butter, and any favourite beverage – cocoa, chocolate, wine, or beer – on returning from an evening’s amusement with exhausted energies; and, lest any of my readers should not know how to arrange them, I give the directions:-

Take a dozen or more fine native oysters, according to your party, remove the beard, and wrap each oyster up in a tiny very thin slice of good bacon, having first salted and peppered it to taste, and added a few drops of lemon juice. Procure some well galvanized or silvered thin skewers, and string the rolled up oysters onto these till each skewer is full. Place them in a Dutch oven before the fire, turning them until the bacon is well done, brown, and crisp, serve on a hot dish, leaving the oysters on the skewers, which can be removed as wanted with a fork.

To transform the “angels” into “devils”, add a larger quantity of cayenne pepper or even a few shreds of capsicum. I prefer the “angels” as retaining the flavour of the oysters, just as I think whitebait is best not devilled. These delicate morsels keep hot for a long time before the fire in my plate warmer, which for the occasion becomes an oven, for the preservation of viands and hot plates, after the prescribed hours of bedtime for the household.
[Aberdeen Weekly Journal, Dec 11, 1800 in ‘Our Ladies Column’]

Angels on Horseback recipe
from https://whatscookingamerica.net/

24 medium-size or small fresh (live) oysters, shucked and drained*
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 clove garlic, minced
Coarse salt
Freshly-ground black pepper
Hot sauce or Tabasco sauce (to taste)
12 slices lean thin-cut bacon, cut in half**
24 buttered toast rounds (optional)
Lemon wedges

Preheat the broiler of your oven. Drain oysters.

In a bowl, mix the wine, garlic, salt, pepper, and hot sauce together. Add drained oysters and toss to coat; let marinate 20 minutes.

Cut the bacon in half and cook in a microwave oven for approximately 1 minute or pan fry until the edges begin to curl but the bacon is still flexible(do not completely cook the bacon). Drain well.

Remove oysters from marinade, Wrap each oyster in a bacon strip and secure with a damp wood toothpick or wood skewer, overlapping the bacon approximately 1 inch. Place the bacon-wrapped oysters on a broiler pan. Cook the oyster and crisp the bacon approximately 5 to 6 minutes on the first side, and another 2 to 4 minutes once you turn them over. You will need to turn them once or twice to get a good crispiness on all sides.

NOTE: You may also cook these "angels" on an outdoor barbecue or range top grill.

Serve immediately with the cocktail pick, or the pick can be removed and the oyster placed on a buttered toast round. Serve with lemon wedges. Some people like to serve these oysters with cocktail sauce or hot pepper sauce.

Makes 24 appetizers.