Switchels

Switchels appeared in the Caribbean sometime in the sixteenth or seventeenth century, a refreshing drink made of vinegar, ginger, molasses and water. It became a staple for seafarers, with Benjamin Morrill (a sailor in the mid 19th century) recommending in a letter to the Secretary of the US Navy that “…switchel, or molasses and water, with a little vinegar in it should be served out to [sailors] once or twice a day, while at sea.” He sustained that adding molasses and vinegar would at least help dilute or mask the taste of the murky drinking water that was usually all they had on board. In Colonial North America, switchels were so refreshing and delicious that people often drank too much, causing bloating and indigestion. For this reason, switchels were usually made with ginger, which would prevent stomach upsets and allow the drinker to drink until they were satisfied.

In the 18th century drinking vinegars, shrubs, and switchels were the absolute rage in colonial America. They were basically the first energy drink – sugar provides calories, water keeps people hydrated, and vinegar stimulates salivation which helps quench thirst and aids in digestion. During the Temperance movement of the 19th century, shrubs were an acceptable alternative to sinful spirits, and in fact it became quite the fashion to find biblical and historical references for shrubs and drinking vinegars, which further legitimized the refreshing beverage. There was also a firmly held belief that ice water was a “…very grim and deleterious beverage, every glass of which should be labeled with a skull and crossbones”. Shrubs were a delicious alternative that could stave off the extreme heat and keep energy levels up.

It may seem strange, but drinking vinegar has been common for centuries the world over, whether it’s the oft-cited Posca, common in ancient Rome and Greece, or the legends that in feudal Japan warriors carried vinegar water with them to fight off fatigue, people have been drinking vinegar for millennia. It’s possible that in ancient times it was used as a way to treat impure drinking water, or else to help ease the effects of drinking unsafe water and eating spoiled food – vinegar can help soothe mild stomach upsets.

Sometimes known as Haymaker’s Punch, a switchel skips over the fermentation stage of shrub making and simply combines vinegar, water, and a sweetener like molasses. The pet name “Haymaker’s Punch” is due to the fact that this drink was favored by farm workers during hay harvest and baling season, arduous work that takes place in the heat of summer.

Shrubs and switchels began as citric drinks, using lemons and limes, but really any fruit will do. Molasses is the old school option, but it’s also the messiest and most flavorful one – it can easily overpower delicate fruit flavors. Honey, maple syrup, or any variety of sugar are all great options. Apple Cider Vinegar is what people in 19th century North America used, and is still the favored choice.

Switchels are instant shrubs; simply combine sweetener (molasses, simple syrup, honey) with vinegar to create a syrup, and dilute in sparkling water (or again, rum).