Flours Used in Breads & how they effect the final product
Wheat Flours
Flour provides the structure in baked goods. Wheat flour contains proteins that interact with each other when mixed with water, forming gluten. It is this elastic gluten framework which stretches to contain the expanding leavening gases during rising. The protein content of a flour affects the strength of a dough. The different wheat flour types contain varying amounts of the gluten forming proteins. Hard wheat, mainly grown in the mid-west of the U.S. has a high protein content. Soft wheat, grown in southern U.S. has less protein. In yeast breads, a strong gluten framework is desirable, but in cakes, quick breads and pastries, a high protein flour makes a tough product.
Bread flour is a hard wheat flour with about 12 percent protein. Bread flour is used for yeast raised bread because the
dough it produces has more gluten than dough made with other flours. Sufficient gluten produces a light loaf with good volume. Slices hold together, rather than crumble.
Cake flour is a soft wheat flour that is 7.5 percent protein. The lower gluten content causes products to have a tender, more crumbly texture that is desirable in cake.
All purpose flour is blended during milling to achieve a protein content of 10.5 percent. This medium protein flour can be used for all baking purposes. If using all purpose flour in place of cake flour in a recipe, substitute 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons all purpose flour for 1 cup cake flour.
Whole wheat flour may be substituted for part of the white flour in yeast and quick bread recipes, but the volume of the finished product will be reduced. Whole wheat flour contains the nutritious germ and bran as well as the endosperm of the wheat kernel. Bran particles cut through the gluten during mixing and kneading of bread dough, resulting in a smaller, heavier loaf. If substituting a very coarsely ground whole wheat flour for all purpose flour, use 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole wheat flour for every cup of all purpose flour. To substitute whole wheat flour in a white bread recipe, use half whole wheat and half bread flour for the best results.
Wheat germ, though not a flour, is often used in place of part of the flour in recipes for flavor and fiber. Protein, vitamins, minerals, and polyunsaturated fats are concentrated in the germ of grain kernels. Wheat germ, preferably toasted, can be used in place of up to 1/3 of the flour in a recipe.
Commercial Wheat Flours
Although wheat flours are marketed under a wide variety of names and formulations, virtually all commercially available flours fall into these eight categories:
| Type | Protein | Ash | Applications |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cake Flour | 7-8.5% | 0.35-0.40% | Cakes |
| Pastry Flour | 8.5-9.5% | 0.40-0.45% | Pastries, pie crusts, cookies, muffins, biscuits |
| All-Purpose (Hotel & Restaurant) Flour | 10-11.5% | 0.45-0.50% | Soft breads, pastries, pie crusts, cookies, muffins, biscuits |
| Bread Flour | 12-13% | 0.48-0.52% | Artisan and soft breads and rolls, puff pastry, Danish |
| Strong Bread Flour | 13-14% | 0.52-0.55% | Artisan breads, hard rolls, pizza crust, bagels |
| High-Gluten Flour | 14-14.5% | 0.52-0.55% | Hard and highly enriched breads, rolls, pizza crust, bagels |
| Whole Wheat Flour | 13.4-14% | 1.60-2.0% | Breads, blended with patent flour for other products |
| First Clear Flour | 15-18% | 0.80-0.90% | Gluten contributor for rye and other breads with high percentages of non-wheat flours. First clear flour is what remains of the wheat kernel after the white wheat flour has been sifted out. It is darker in color and more flavorful. |
| Durum Wheat | Generally milled into two types of flour - durum patent flour, a finely milled flour used extensively in pasta-making and the breads of Southern Italy, and the coarser-grind semolina. In America, the Jewish bakers used semolina like cornmeal, lightly sprinkled on peels and proofing boards to prevent rolls and rye breads from sticking. |
Non-Wheat Flours
The following non-wheat grain products are often used in baked goods. They are rich in protein but most do not have the potential for developing gluten. For this reason, at least 1 cup of wheat flour should be used for every 1 cup of non-wheat flour so the product will not become too heavy.
Rye flour is often used in combination with wheat flour for bread. Light rye flour can be successfully substituted for 40 percent of wheat flour in a recipe without loss of volume. Medium and dark rye flours should be limited to 30 percent and 20 percent, respectively, of the total flour amount.
Triticale flour is a hybrid of wheat and rye. It has an average protein content higher than that of wheat flour. In yeast bread dough, triticale flour has better handling properties than rye flour because it will form gluten, but does not handle as well as wheat dough. For a good quality dough, ferment yeast dough made with Triticale flour for a shorter period than wheat flour dough.
Oat flour has a relatively high protein content, 17 percent, but does not form gluten. Oat flour can be substituted for as much as 1/3 of wheat flour in bread.
Corn meal is coarsely ground dried corn. Corn flour is more finely ground corn. Both corn flour and corn meal contain 7-8 percent protein on a dry basis. Neither corn meal nor corn flour will form gluten. A grainy texture in cornbread can be avoided by mixing the cornmeal with the liquid from the recipe, bringing to a boil, and cooling before mixing with the other ingredients.
Rice flour has about 6.5-7 protein and does not form gluten. For people who do not tolerate gluten, rice flour is an acceptable substitute for wheat, barley, rye or oat flours. In baked products, 7/8 cup of non-waxy rice flour can be used in place of 1 cup all purpose wheat flour.
Potato starch flour, another non-gluten forming flour is usually used in combination with other flours. It has a mild potato taste. For substitutions, 5/8 cup of potato flour can be used for 1 cup of all purpose flour.
Soy flour contains 50 percent protein and is used primarily to boost the protein content of baked goods. Soy flour cannot form gluten and does not contain starch. Its use in large amounts affects the taste of baked goods and causes them to brown quickly. An acceptable substitution is to take 2 tablespoons flour out of each cup of flour in a recipe and add 2 tablespoons soy flour.
A Comparison of Heirloom Wheat Varieties
from https://www.culturesforhealth.com/
The wheat most people are familiar with is just one or two varieties of grasses in a family called Triticum. While bread wheat (T. aestivum) will yield consistently good results in sourdough bread baking, home bakers may wish to try out some other varieties for fun, nutrition, and flavor. Here are some grains that can be found in health food stores and large supermarkets.
Types of Heirloom Wheat
Einkorn (Triticum monococcum)
Einkorn wheat is one of the oldest known cultivated varieties of wheat. It has a more simple genetic structure, and has not been hybridized. Einkorn has experienced a resurgence in popularity, as it is believed to be easier for people with a gluten intolerance to digest.* Einkorn is available as a whole grain or white flour for baking.
Emmer (Triticum dicoccum)
Emmer (also known as farro) is another very early variety of wheat. Farmers grew both einkorn and emmer in the Fertile Crescent. Farro in stores is usually sold whole or pearled. Soak the grains before cooking to enjoy their nutty, chewy texture in salads. Emmer flour is not as widely available as some other heritage wheats. Because of the lower gluten level and slightly harder grains, dough will be quite sticky and will not rise as much. Home bakers should experiment with hydration levels.
Spelt (Triticum spelta)
Spelt is confusingly also referred to as farro by some mills. It is perhaps one of the most popular of the alternative wheats and is the most similar in genetic structure to T. aestivum. The exact history is unclear, but spelt is a hybridized variety of grain, with Emmer as one of its ancestors. Spelt’s popularity stems in part from its similarity to wheat. It has a higher gluten content, a nutty flavor, and is easier to mill than some heritage grains. However, some people who do not tolerate regular wheat well, can enjoy spelt.
Most whole wheat bread recipes will work with a direct substitution of spelt flour.
Triticale (× Triticosecale)
Triticale is hybrid of wheat and rye, and carries characteristics of each. It is grown for its high rate of germination and tolerance of poor growing conditions. Triticale is high in protein, but lower in gluten than wheat. Use triticale in baking as a whole wheat substitute. Because of the nature of this hybrid, there can be variations between crops.
Kamut (Triticum turanicum)
The history of kamut is a little less clear than some other wheat varieties. It was a popular grain in Egypt and the surrounding area. Kamut makes a delicious porridge and can be used in pasta, bread, and other baked goods. Like other old wheat varieties, kamut is lower in gluten and does not make a light, lofty loaf of bread. It is excellent in sweeter foods because of its buttery flavor.
Baking with Heirloom Wheat Flours and Sourdough Starters
How to Work with Heirloom Wheat Dough:
Heirloom wheat absorbs water more slowly, so the dough tends to be quite sticky at first.
Rule of Thumb: Reduce the water in the recipe by one-fourth, but be prepared to add more if needed.
A slightly sticky dough will rise better and have a more pleasant crumb.
Combine the ingredients and knead the dough until it is springy. Then set it aside to proof for several hours, depending on the temperature. The structure tends to develop better over time, rather than with a lot of vigorous kneading. A second proofing before baking will give the proteins time to develop more fully and the sourdough cultures time to improve the flavor and crumb. Allowing the dough to rest in the refrigerator overnight before baking is a wonderful way to fit these flours into a busy schedule.
How to Combine Heirloom Wheat with Modern Wheat
Combining heirloom wheat with modern wheat is another way to enjoy the flavor and benefits of heirloom wheat, while still making bread with a more familiar texture. Begin by replacing 1/4 - 1/2 of the total amount of white flour in the recipe with a whole grain flour. Reduce the water slightly to compensate for the change. Mix, knead, and proof as directed. Increase the proportion of heirloom wheat flour over time, or continue making loaves of light, chewy bread.
*Einkorn is wheat and those with allergies or celiac disease should consult a licensed healthcare professional with specific dietary questions.
