Cake Style Doughnuts

Cinnamon Sugar Cake-style Doughnuts
Cinnamon Sugar Cake-style Doughnuts

Cake doughnuts first appeared in US cookbooks in the 1830s, around the same time that baking soda and baking powder first became commercially available. A really great cake doughnut is a thing of beauty: tender, chewy (but never tough), with a puffy, cracked top that's slightly crunchy in spots.

See variations at the end of Betty Crocker's recipe for:

from https://www.bonappetit.com/

"The doughnuts need time to form maximum puffiness and for the centers to cook through, which is why we cook them at a relatively low 325°. If you cook in oil that's too hot, the doughnuts will be too dark (read: tough and dry) by the time they're cooked through. While frying, watch your thermometer—if the oil temp starts to climb, turn it down to low for a little bit.

Speaking of doneness, there are a few telltale signs of a well-made cake doughnut. You want them to be golden brown, but not too golden brown, which will leave them dry and tough. You want your doughnuts to have cracks on the tops, which indicate the insides expanded during the frying process to a light, cakey texture."

Cake-style Donuts
from Betty Crocker Cookbook, 1950

"The best of the old New England recipes."

This is the style of donut we ate around Halloween when we were kids. I remember them tasting like nutmeg, and not so much cinnamon. See Food Network Kitchens’ recipe to the right that uses nutmeg and mace instead of the nutmeg and cinnamon in this recipe.

4 egg yolks (or 2 whole eggs)
1 c. sugar
2 Tbsp. soft shortening
3/4 c. thick buttermilk or sour milk
3 1/2 c. sifted flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. soda
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
1/4 tsp. cinnamon

Beat the eggs thoroughly. Beat in the sugar and soft shortening. Stir in the milk. Sift the rest of the ingredients (dry ingredients) and stir in. Do not overmix.

Heat deep frying fat to 370 to 380° F.

Turn onto lightly floured board; knead 5 or 6 times. Roll out 1/3" thick. Let rest for 20 minutes. Cut with donut cutter. Fry in hot fat until brown. Drain on absorbent paper.

Serve plain, sugared or glazed (see below).

Yield: 2 dozen 3" donuts

Note: 2 tsp. vanilla may be used in place of the spices.

Sugar Donuts: Once the donuts have cooled, shake one at a time in a paper bag with a little confectioners' sugar.

Cinnamon Sugar: While still hot, shake donuts one at a time in a paper bag with a little cinnamon sugar made with about 1/4 cup sugar and 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon. Add a second coating, applied a few minutes later.

To Glaze Donuts: Add 1/3 c. boiling water gradually to 1 c. confectioners' sugar. Mix well. Dip warm donuts into the warm glaze. Place on a wire rack until glaze is set.

Honey Glaze: Combine 4 cups confectioners sugar, sifted, 3/4 cup whole milk, and 1/3 cup honey in a saucepan and bring to a simmer, whisking constantly. Remove from heat after a few minutes of simmering and dip the cooled donuts in the glaze one at a time. Set them on a wired rack to set up.

Chocolate Glaze: Melt 1/2 cup (85g) semi-sweet chocolate or chocolate chips, 3 tablespoons heavy cream, and 2 tablespoons (30g) unsalted butter gently in the microwave (in 30-second intervals, stirring in between) or a double boiler until smooth. Dip the tops of the donuts into the chocolate glaze, and place on a cooling rack to set.

Chocolate Dipped Donuts: Once donuts are cool to the touch, melt 1 cup semi-sweet chocolate (either in a double boiler or slowly in the microwave, stirring every 20-30 seconds) until the chocolate is completely smooth. Carefully drop the donuts, one at a time, into the melted chocolate and turn them over to coat them completely. Allow extra chocolate to drain off and place on waxed paper to set.

Peanut Donuts: Dip warm donuts into warm glaze made from 1/4 c. milk and 2 to 2 1/2 c. confectioner's sugar, then immediately into 1/2 c. finely chopped peanuts. Place on a wire rack until glaze is set.

Coconut Donuts: Dip warm donuts into warm glaze made from 1/4 c. milk, or unsweetened coconut milk, and 2 to 2 1/2 c. confectioner's sugar, then immediately into toasted shredded coconut. Place on a wire rack until glaze is set. Dunkin’ Donuts makes a toasted coconut doughnut that many people really like.

Dunkin’ Donuts Coconut Doughnut
Dunkin’ Donuts’ toasted coconut doughnut

Classic Cake Doughnuts
Recipe courtesy Food Network Kitchens

These doughnuts are at their best right after making them.

1/4 cup vegetable shortening, plus more for deep frying
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup canned evaporated milk
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground mace
1 teaspoon fine salt

For coating the doughnuts (optional): 1 cup granulated sugar, or 1 cup granulated sugar mixed with 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon, or 1 cup sifted confectioners' sugar

Melt the shortening in a small saucepan over medium heat. Set aside to cool slightly but still liquid.

In a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the sugar and shortening together on medium speed, until just combined. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the milk and vanilla, and continue beating until the mixture is light, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, sift the flour, baking powder, nutmeg, mace, and salt into a medium bowl.

Reduce the mixer's speed to low, add the flour mixture until just combined. (The texture of the dough will be soft and loose.) Transfer the dough to a large piece of plastic wrap and wrap it well. (Make sure you scrap off all the dough clinging to the paddle.) Refrigerate the dough for 4 hours or overnight.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the chilled dough out into a rectangle about 1/2-inch thick. Dip the edges of a 2 1/2-inch-round doughnut cutter in flour and cut the dough into doughnuts. Place the doughnuts and holes on a baking sheet lined with parchment.

Put enough vegetable shortening into a tall, heavy-bottomed pot to fill it about a third of the way up. Heat the shortening over medium heat until a deep-fry thermometer inserted in the oil registers 375 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.

Working in batches, fry the doughnuts and holes, turning once, until they are golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the doughnuts to the paper towels to drain and cool. Repeat until all the doughnuts and holes are fried. (Make sure the shortening returns to 375 degrees F. between batches.)

For sugared doughnuts, roll the doughnuts in sugar or cinnamon sugar while they are still warm. To cover the doughnuts with confectioners' sugar, allow them to cool completely before rolling in the sugar.

Yield: 2 dozen doughnuts and holes