Sauce for fried gourd or marrow, Apicius 3.4.7
from Cooking Apicius: Roman Recipes for Today by Sally Grainger

This is a basic oenogarum but with more spices than usual. It was designed for cucurbits, the original gourd-like plants which were native to Italy and which we might equate with any of the firmfleshed gourds or squashes. Marrows and courgettes were not available in the ancient Mediterranean world, they are New World varieties brought back by the successors of Columbus. If you want to use them in this recipe, a large and aged marrow is better than a softer courgette.

½ level tsp lovage seed
1 level tsp cumin seed
generous freshly ground black pepper
1 level tsp dried oregano or a little more fresh
50 ml white wine
1 tbsp fish sauce
2 tbsp olive oil
750 g gourd, winter squash or marrow

Roast and grind the whole spices, mix with the pepper and combine with the wine, herbs and fish sauce in a small saucepan. Bring it to a simmer. Peel, seed and dice the gourd or marrow and fry in olive oil until it is cooked and has taken on some colour. Pour on the sauce and boil fiercely to combine. Serve.