British Condiments & Sauces

The English love their sauces just as much as the French love theirs, both savoury sauces and dessert sauces.

Gravy is the most common sauce made at home, with variants such as onion gravy being popular.

Other than gravy, perhaps the most common sauce made at home is a white sauce (which the French call "béchamel".) It can be seasoned with salt and pepper, or salt and nutmeg, and served on its own. Or grated cheese can be added to it to make a cheese sauce, fresh chopped parsley to make parsley sauce, or mustard to make a mustard sauce.

The most popular sauces in England since the Victorian Era have been commercial bottled ones. While England didn't invent the concept of purchased commercial sauces (the Romans did that, with their fish sauce garum), they certainly revived the concept for the modern age, and when one thinks now of English sauces, one mostly thinks of bottled commercial sauces.

The Victorians invented three great British commercial sauces: Worcestershire, Brown (HP) Sauce, and Gentleman's Relish. All three are still around today, though Gentleman's Relish is lesser known.

Popular commercial sauces include Ketchup (the most popular brand is Heinz), brown sauce (the most popular brand is HP), Worcestershire Sauce (the most popular brand is Lea & Perrins), creamed horseradish (aka horseradish sauce, as opposed to the grated), and mayonnaises (purchased), both regular and flavoured varieties.

HP Sauce is referred to as "brown sauce", ketchup as "red sauce." Note that the English will still often say "tomato ketchup", as opposed to just "ketchup", because they still have other kinds of ketchup such as mushroom.

Often, two or more contrasting sauces are served with a meal. At Christmas dinner, you may be offered gravy, bread sauce, and cranberry sauce with turkey; for a Sunday roast dinner, if it's beef, gravy, mustard, and horseradish sauce; it's a game bird, gravy, bread sauce and red currant sauce.

Some traditionalists still begrudge the arrival of cranberry sauce to English tables (a recent arrival to the English table and usually purchased), but it has lodged itself firmly on English tables for occasions such as Christmas. Another popular sweet sauces include apple sauce (usually purchased). The English will often serve sweet sauces (such as mint sauce, apple sauce, cranberry sauce) with meat, which appalls the French.

Some Historical Notes

There were two other sauces in England though that were popular before it came along, which have now died out. There was a white sauce made from eggs and cream, and thickened with ground almonds, as white wheat flour was a scarce luxury. And, there was green sauce, to be served with boiled meats. There were variations in the recipes for green sauce, but it was commonly made from finely-minced herbs such as mint, garlic, parsley and thyme, mixed with vinegar and thickened with bread crumbs.

In the 1800s, some writers moaned that every sauce in England was a "melted butter" sauce:

“Melted butter, we are indeed told, plays in English cookery nearly the same part as the Lord Mayor’s coach at civic ceremonies, calomel in the practice of medicine, and silver forks in fashionable novels. Melted butter is to English sauces what stock is to French soups – melted butter and eggs, melted butter and parsley, melted butter and capers, melted butter and anchovies – it is still always melted butter.” -- The New Monthly Magazine, London, 1866.

It seems though, that what they actually mean is a white sauce.

"Melted butter for sure, but then with flour added to make a roux, and then milk. GOOD MELTED BUTTER.... Cut two ounces of butter into little bits, that it may melt more easily and mix more readily; put it into the stewpan with a large teaspoonful (i.e. about three drachms) of Flour (some prefer Arrow Root or Potatoe Starch) and two tablespoonsful of Milk. When thoroughly mixed, add six tablespoonsful of water; hold it over the fire, and shake it round every minute, (all the while the same way) till it just begins to simmer , then let it stand quietly and boil up. It should be of the thickness of good cream." -- Dr William Kitchiner. The Cook’s Oracle. 1822.

For Meats, Fish and Seafoods

As one blogger noted: "We’re very particular about which condiment goes with which meat. Roast beef gets horseradish, pork gets apple, turkey gets cranberry… and lamb gets mint. That’s the law of the land. And if it isn’t, it should be."

Malt Vinegar (fish)

Another staple of British condiments, malt vinegar is created from malting barley, causing the starch in the grain to turn into maltose, or malt sugar. Britain is a barley nation. It’s the foundation of our beer, our spirits (hello whisky!) and our favorite vinegar, malt, without which, fish and chips would be unthinkable. Malt vinegar is made from germinated dried barley grains (malt), which bring a toasty, nutty character to the condiment. It’s perfectly designed to cut through anything fried or fatty, from a classic chip supper, to (my favorite) a meat and potato pie.

Its condiment use is mostly reserved to a single dish—battered and fried cod, the primary dish in classic fish and chips. There are some who loved putting the vinegar on their chips as well as their fish, which you’re welcome to do if you want to add a tangy flavor to your chips instead of dipping them in tomato ketchup. I, however, will judge you harshly for this. Malt vinegar is the perfect condiment for fish, and I always put some on before dipping my cod in tartar sauce.

One of the most recognizable products in Britain, thanks to its distinctive pear-shaped bottle, Sarson's, was founded in London in 1784 by Thomas Sarson, but really took off when his son, James, took over the business in 1850. James renamed the product Sarson's Virgin Vinegar, a reference to the parable of the wise and foolish virgins in the Bible (Matthew 25)—a preachy marketing tactic we’ll see again in the highly moralistic Victorian Age of condiments. By 1913 the factory was producing more than a million gallons a year.

Marie Rose Sauce (prawns)

Marie Rose sauce is the pink stuff that turns prawns into a prawn cocktail. Did you know it was invented by TV cook Fanny Cradock in the Sixties? It is, in essence, just tomato ketchup mixed with mayonnaise. If you’re feeling brave, you can add yoghurt, lemon juice, Tabasco sauce and even whisky into the mix. Oh, and don’t forget the prawns.

Horseradish sauce (beef)

You’ve made the Sunday dinner. The roast beef. The potatoes and Yorkshire puddings. The carrots, peas, gravy. Just one more thing: horseradish sauce. Hot enough to catch the back of your nose – almost painful, but in a nice way – this punchy condiment brings a sharp focus to the rich flavours on your plate. Fantastic.

Apple Sauce (pork)

Served with pork.

Mint Sauce (lamb)

What could be simpler than mixing chopped mint leaves with vinegar and a little bit of sugar? What could be a better accompaniment to roast lamb than mint sauce? Served with lamb as part of a Sunday roast, mint sauce is readily available at British restaurants and pubs and in homes around the U.K. The mixture of mint, vinegar, and sugar is sometimes drizzled on mushy peas, a classic accompaniment to fish and chips. Leftover sauce works well in cucumber salad or added to yogurt to make a dip. Mint sauce is still sometimes made at home, as it is easily made with vinegar, sugar and fresh chopped mint from the back garden.

Redcurrant Jelly

The French sometimes lay claim to the invention of redcurrant jelly. They say it was invented in 1364 by a chap named Perrin Lamothe – but we Brits know better. In fact, it was being eaten here a century earlier. Edward I, on the throne between 1272 and 1307, was served it at royal banquets. He liked it with roast swan. Most of us prefer it with lamb or turkey.

For Sandwiches

Branston Pickle

Keeping with the pickled theme, this sticky brown relish is sweeter than the aforementioned Piccalilli, but still packs a punch. Containing diced vegetables and fruit (carrot, swede, onion, cauliflower, marrow and gherkin), this chutney comes in various levels of chunkiness, which I appreciate. However you like it, Branston Pickle is a kitchen must-have and goes great with a strong cheddar. Cheese-and-pickle (as in Branston) sandwiches are a thing in the U.K., and for good reason. Branston was created by Crosse & Blackwell, and named after the company’s Branston Lodge factory near Burton on Trent, where it was first manufactured in 1922.

Let’s talk about the perfection that is a ploughman's lunch. Crusty bread, a selection of British cheeses (a squidgy slice of Kelson Park, a sharp hunk of extra strong cheddar, a tangy wedge of Blacksticks blue), maybe a tranche of ham, maybe a slice of pork pie, a local apple, and a blob of pickle.

Not a pickle, singular, but pickle, a mixture of chopped vegetables, vinegar, sugar, and spices that you dollop onto your plate. There is no better thing to eat after a brisk walk, in a country pub, by a roaring fire. And so, it is not surprising that Brits have strong opinions about pickles. Generally speaking, pickles fall into two camps: mustard and sweet. Branston Pickle, named after the factory where it was created, is the quintessential sweet version, made from swede (that's rutabaga), carrots, onions, cauliflower, and gherkins, smothered in a syrupy tomato sauce.

The origins of the recipe have something of a mythic feel, but it’s generally accepted that when the Crosse & Blackwell factory opened a location in Branston, one of the workers, Mrs. Graham, created the condiment in the dormitory kitchen for her daughters Evelyn and Ermentrude. Word spread, and the rest is history. The recipe has not changed since that first jar back in 1922, which means that the crumby, creamy Lancashire cheese and pickle sandwiches that I eat taste exactly the same as the ones my grandfather and great-grandfather ate. Now that’s a food legacy.

Colman’s English Mustard

To mistake English mustard for American mustard is a dangerous mistake. Fiercely yellow, and sinus clearing, English mustard gets its kick from the combination of two different kinds of mustard seeds: white, which bring the initial almost wasabi-like punch, and brown, which provides the lasting heat. Proper mustard shouldn’t be meek and mild (as the Americans would have it), or dark brown and vinegary (as they prefer in Dijon, France); it should be fierce and fiery. Proper English mustard.

The most famous mustard in Britain is Colman's, established by James Colman in 1814 in a watermill near Norwich. It began commercially producing its classic mustard powder in 1823, and still uses local crops, which cover the Norfolk countryside in bobbing yellow flowers. In 1903, the Colman family bought rival mustard makers Keen & Son… hence the phrase, “keen as mustard”.

Mustard powder can be stirred directly (if cautiously) into gravy, sprinkled pinch by pinch into white sauce, or whisked into salad dressing. As a paste, it’s as essential to a good ham sandwich as the ham and the bread.

Spreads for Breads

Marmite & Bovril

Forget Brexit. The most divisive question in Britain? Do you love Marmite, or do you hate it?

In the late 19th century, a German scientist, Justus Von Liebig, discovered that brewers yeast could be concentrated and eaten, and the spread was born. Not long after, in 1902, the Marmite Food Extract Company was founded in Burton, close to the Bass Brewery, which supplied the yeast. The name itself comes from the French name for the earthenware pot that Marmite was originally sold in—there’s a picture of a Marmite pot on the label today.

Marmite is the Platonic perfect spread for hot buttered toast or crumpets, but you can also use it as a flavor booster to stews, or try the after-school special, marmite and butter melted over spaghetti.

If you like Marmite and are feeling a bit more adventurous, get your hands on a jar of Bovril, a similarly dark extract, made from beef. It was originally created during the Franco Prussian war as a way of providing meat nutrition to soldiers at the front (and un-appetizingly called Johnson’s Fluid Beef). The branded product Bovril was created in 1886, and has been bolstering spirits and dividing families more divisively than Marmite ever since.

Gentleman’s Relish

Invented by John Osborn in 1828, Gentleman’s Relish is a secret mixture of anchovies, butter, herbs and spices. It sounds like a strange thing to spread on bread. But it’s a delight. Crazily salty, not a little fishy, the trick is not to use too much at any one time.

Salad Dressings

Salad Cream

Seen everywhere from pub tables to birthday parties to my mother-in-law's fridge, this salad dressing is basically mayo, an emulsion of oil, water, egg yolk, mustard, and vinegar. In 1845, a recipe for “English salad sauce” appeared in Eliza Acton's Modern Cookery For Private Families. Eliza was British, but it fell to an American company – Heinz – to popularise this most British of condiments. Heinz created salad cream specifically for UK customers. It was created at Heinz’s Harlesden kitchens and first went on sale in 1914. This sauce was a 1940s wartime staple when rationing began — an alternative to mayonnaise and ketchup, which were expensive and hard to come by — but is often snubbed these days. I still remain a loyal fan, though. And don't let the name fool you – it's delicious on more than just salad.

Salad cream is a yellowish condiment made with water, egg yolk, and spirit vinegar. As a condiment, it can be used not just as a salad dressing, but also as a sandwich spread. The classic salad cream salad, as made by grandmothers up and down Britain, involves iceberg lettuce and a hard-boiled egg, or possibly a nice bit of tinned salmon. More often, I use it in potato salad, or, mixed with yogurt, as a dip for crudités.

Pickles & Relishes

Piccalilli

Don't let the bright-yellow hue turn you off — that's just the turmeric. This chunky, tangy relish made of pickled vegetables and spices is the perfect accompaniment to meat and cheese. Add to a cheeseboard or put it next to the ketchup at a BBQ.

The companion pickle to Branston, Piccalilli is a mustard pickle with its roots in the British Raj. A recipe from 1758, “To Pickle Lila, an Indian Pickle,” written by Lady Anne Blencowe, reveals the condiment’s growing popularity, and connects it into the tradition of the classic Indian preserves achar.

With its vivid yellow color from the turmeric and distinctive mustard kick, Piccalilli is a sauce on the side, rather than a spread. It pairs well with all kinds of cold cuts, and it’s perfect with kippers and even hot smoked salmon. If you’re in London, you can find everything you need to make the perfect picnic at Borough Market (check out Neal’s Yard Dairy for the ultimate cheese plate and The Ginger Pig for a traditional pork pie to go with). But, as its heritage suggests, it’s the perfect accompaniment to spicier foods—and my family’s go to for leftover Christmas Turkey curry.

Table Condiments and Seasonings

HP Sauce (Brown Sauce)

Referred to as "brown sauce," this popular table condiment is, you guessed it, brown — and vinegary, slightly sweet, and thicker than A1 sauce. HP stands for “House of Parliament” and it’s the best brown sauce in Britain. We may disagree over which brand we prefer, but one thing’s for sure: there’s a bottle of brown sauce at the back of every fridge in Britain. The piquant dressing brings out the best in bacon sandwiches, baked beans, shepherd’s pie, eat it with beef and – crucially – the sausage sandwich. It’s a glorious concoction of tomatoes, vinegar, dates, tamarind and spices. HP dates back to 1899. In the States, HP Sauce is probably the most widely distributed of the British table condiments, but I'm always surprised by how few Americans actually know it. Next time you reach for A1, try HP instead.

The original recipe for HP—featuring tomatoes, malt vinegar, molasses, and tamarind spice—was developed by Frederick Gibson Garton, a grocer from Nottingham. In 1895, he paid off a debt by selling the recipe for £150 to Edwin Moore, the founder of the Midlands Vinegar Company. Moore had heard that a restaurant near the Houses of Parliament was serving the sauce, and had the idea to name it after the landmark. The sauce’s rise to ubiquity had begun.

Worcestershire sauce

Sure, it’s possible to bake a cottage pie without using it. Yes, one can merrily flip open half a dozen oysters and eat them neat. But how much better is each of those dishes with a splash of Worcestershire sauce?The dark brown, richly spiced condiment was invented in 1837 by two pharmacists from Worcester (yes, you’ve guessed it: a Mr Lea and a Mr Perrins). Where the condiment really sings for itself is in Welsh rarebit, a bubbling melted cheese on toast. Try it with a creamy cheddar like Hafod Organic, (from Bwlchwernen Fawr in Wales, of course) for a supper to warm the soul.

A recipe with Colonial roots, the story goes that Lady Sandys of Ombersley Court, Worcestershire, commissioned local chemists Wheely Lea and William Henry Perrins to make her up a spicy condiment based on a recipe from Sir Charles, Chief Justice of India. The experiment did not get off to a good start. When Lea and Perrins tasted their brew—a secret combination of anchovies, brine, molasses, vinegar and spices—it was inedible. However, a few months later, when they’d let it sit and ferment a while, they noticed that the flavors had smoothed and rounded out into the sauce that we know and love today. It was 1837, and a legend was born. By World War II, Lea & Perrins sauce was considered an essential condiment.

Sweet Condiments

Lemon Curd

Lemon curd is a well-known ingredient in desserts in the U.S., but in the U.K. it's also totally acceptable to spread on breakfast items like toast or crumpets. Smooth and tart, lemon curd is the perfect treat to start your day. Move over, Nutella.

Custard

Sweet sauces such as a custard sauce are still made at home, usually from Bird's Custard Powder, though ready-made tubs of custard sauce are also inexpensively available in chillers at supermarkets. It's hard to believe I ever lived a life without custard. While it can easily be homemade, a can of Ambrosia Devon custard or the powdered Bird's version will do. Served hot or cold, custard is a fantastic alternative to whipped cream or ice cream.

Clotted Cream

My favorite part of afternoon tea is the scones, but only because they come with clotted cream. Thick and rich, a dollop goes a long way. Homemade or from a jar, clotted cream will never go to waste. It's amazing spread on scones or heaped onto grilled fruit or eaten straight off a spoon.

Golden Syrup

Is it even a British pantry if there’s not a slightly gooey tin of golden syrup stuck to the shelf? For pouring over porridge, for sweetening a stew, for twizzling on a crumpet, or for stirring up emergency flapjacks, there’s always a good reason to lever up the lid and spoon out a sticky mouthful.

Golden syrup is really a genius marketing move. Back in 1883, Charles Eastick, a chemist at the Abram Lyle & Sons, discovered how to turn the crystalline treacle waste product of sugar refining into a gooey spread. A devout Christian, Eastick made the rather bold marketing choice to put a rotting lion corpse swarming with bees on the tin, along with the slogan “out of the strong came forth sweetness,” a reference to the story in the book of Judges. The image and the line were trademarked in 1904, and that piece of legalese makes Lyle's Golden Syrup the carrier of Britain’s oldest branded packaging, according to the Guinness Book of World Records).