Gratonata of chickens
from https://2manycookbooks.wordpress.com/
Gratonea is the Latin name for a fried dish that appears in many medieval cookbooks, especially in British, French, and Italian ones, as gratonata, gratunee, cretonee, and the like. Although the recipes at times vary widely, they all seem to have chicken or capon meat and egg yolks as common ingredients, as well as milk or verjuice, as in the following example from Italy.
To go with the chicken, we made some gnocchi. The gnocchi here are the original gangstas of the pasta clan, dating from a time before either semolina or potato flour for starch. This recipe is also from The Medieval Kitchen, and is from another unsigned 14th Century Tuscan manuscript.
Gratonata of chickens [Chicken with Verjuice]
Cut up your chickens, fry them with pork fat and with onions; and while they are frying add a little water so that they cook nicely in the pan; and stir them often with a large spoon; add spices, saffron, and sour grape juice [verjuice], and boil; and for each chicken take four egg yolks, mix them with verjuice and boil this separately; and beat everything together in the pan, and boil everything together with the pieces of chicken; and when it boils remove it from the fire and eat it.
- originates from an unsigned 14th Century Tuscan manuscript, and is reprinted with its modern version in The Medieval Kitchen: Recipes from France and Italy.
Chicken with Verjuice:
- 1 chicken
- 1 medium onion
- 2 oz pork fatback
- 10 tbs water
- 10 tbs verjuice
- 4 egg yolks
- 1/2 tsp ground mace
- 1/2 tsp ground ginger
- 1 pinch cinnamon
- 1 pinch saffron threads
- salt and pepper
Cut chicken into serving pieces, season with salt and pepper, and slice onion thinly. Cut fatback into small dice and render the fat in a heavy bottomed casserole or dutch oven. Add chicken and onion and brown on all sides. Add water and bring to the boil, then add 3 tbs verjuice and the spices. Cover and simmer for about 45 minutes. Remove from heat.
When chicken is done, beat remaining 7 tbs of verjuice into the egg yolks in a small saucepan. Bring nearly to the boil over low heat and then add to the casserole with the chicken. Mix well until sauce is thick.
This recipe reminded me a lot of chicken adobo, but with a slight fruitiness due to the presence of verjuice rather than vinegar. It’s really worth the trouble to get ahold of actual verjuice (you can use it instead of vinegar or lemon juice just about anywhere, and unlike them it doesn’t combine poorly with wine on the palate), but if you really want to try this recipe without it the book suggests using the juice of one lemon combined with 3 tbs water as a substitute.