Rys
from http://www.celtnet.org.uk/

Rice was not a widespread cereal during the middle-ages in Europe (it had to be imported) and accompanying it with almond milk and saffron undoubtedly made this a dish for a nobleman’s table. Still, the following recipe was common enough in England at the time of Chaucer, and was referred to quite frequently. Note that this recipe contains no eggs or dairy products and is therefore suitable for lenten feasts.

As usual, there is a host of questions that come to mind when reading this recipe. First and foremost, what type of rice would they have been talking about? Research ensued. As it turns out, there is no clear cut evidence of what type of rice was available and used in medieval Europe but there is circumstantial information that indicates that they were probably using short grain white rice. This was great news as in most places short grain white rice is used for rice pudding, namely Valencia or even Arborio rice, because its higher amount of amylopectins makes a for a creamy final dish. This is also why short grain rice is used for risotto.

The other questions were regarding times, amounts, etc. all of which I could sort of answer with my knowledge of modern rice pudding. The one urge I had to resist was that of using the modern method of cooking rice pudding, where you cook the rice already in the milk, instead of in water and then adding milk as the recipe calls for doing. Some rice puddings made with milk, or cream, can be quite heavy, but this one felt light in the mouth.  I’m going to call it a success.

FMM: Notice that the recipe does not tell you to strain the water from the rice after cookng. I have read the first recipes were pottages, such as the recipe from The Forme of Cury (1390), which gives a recipe for a rice pottage, and one for Ryse of Flesh. The Rice of Flesh is savoury and made with broth, almond milk and saffron, while the rice pottage is what would become the modern-day rice pudding and the recipe just omits the salt and broth, using water instead to cook the rice the first time. Sugar isn’t added in The Forme of Cury; for a sweetened rice pudding we have to wait until the 15th-century Austin manuscripts, which include a pudding sweetened with honey and sugar.

Original Recipes

Ryse Of Flesh

Take Ryse and waishe hem clene. And do hem in erthen pot with gode broth and lat hem seeþ wel. Afterward take Almaund mylke and do þer to. And colour it wiþ safroun an salt, an messe forth.
- The Forme of Cury, ed. Samual Pegge, c.1390

Rys (from Harleian MS 279, about 1430)

.lxxxvj. Rys. Take a porcyoun of Rys, & pyke hem clene, & sethe hem welle, & late hem kele; þen take gode Mylke of Almaundys & do þer-to, & seþe & stere wyl; & do þer-to Sugre an hony, & serue forth.

Translation:

Rice. Take a portion of Rice, & pick it clean, & boil it well, & let it cool; then take good Milk of Almonds amd do there-to, & boil & stir it well; & do there-to Sugar and honey, & serve it forth.

Modern Redaction

300g cooked rice
300ml almond milk
50g sugar
60ml honey

Place the rice in a large saucepan then add the almond milk. Bring to the boil and under constant stirring reduce the heat to a simmer and add the sugar and honey. Allow to cook for abut 15 minutes until the mixture thickens then serve immediately.

Another redaction from http://www.historicalfoodways.com/

Almond Rice Pudding

4.5 cups water
1 cup of short grain rice (I used arborio)
3 cups almond milk
1/2 cup turbinado sugar
1/4 cup honey

Bring the water to a boil in a heavy bottom pan. Add the rice, and turn the heat to low; cook, stirring often, until the rice is tender and the water has been absorbed, 30-35 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool. The rice will be lumpy and sticky once cooled.

Mix the almond milk, sugar, and honey. Add to the rice and stir well. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium-low heat, stirring often as it has a tendency to burn. Simmer, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes. The mixture will be soupy. Transfer to a container.

The mixture will be set when it cools, although it may be eaten warm and runny.