Tamale Dos and Don'ts

Diana Kennedy prefers tamales without meat fillings because she says the meat tends to overcook. She also says that most tamales -- and this holds true for the Tamales Cernidos con Rajas y Queso -- don't need additional sauce. Here are more of Kennedy's guidelines for making delicious tamales.

• The tamale steamers that are sold by Mexican grocers are a worthwhile investment. Chinese bamboo steamers and other types aren't large enough to make a large batch, or don't close tightly enough.
• It's important to assemble the tamales as quickly as possible and cook them immediately. It helps to have a friend or two to help with that part of the process.
• The amount of lard seems high, but Kennedy says much of it falls into the water or is absorbed in the husks. "Pork lard, please, no substitutes," she says. "Anyone who can't eat lard should not be eating tamales."
• Spread only a thin layer of masa on each corn husk, since it will expand in cooking; the end result is a lighter tamale than the standard hefty type. When rolling the filled husk together, try to keep it in a cylindrical shape rather than squashing it.
• Keep the water at a low but steady boil and never allow the tamales to stop cooking midway, or they'll end up heavy. Place a penny or two in the tamale steamer water; as long as you can hear the pennies rattle, you know the water is boiling properly and that it hasn't run out.
• Never add cold water to the pot. Have boiling water ready in case you need to replenish the pot.
• Once cooked, any leftovers will keep two days in the refrigerator or three months in the freezer. When reheating, do not defrost; put them still frozen into a hot steamer for 15-20 minutes.