Double and Triple Cremes

These cheeses have been heavily enriched with cream during their manufacturing process. According to French law these cheeses are classified double crème when they contain a minimum of 60 per cent butter fat (rnatière grasse) per gram, and triple crème when they contain a minimum of 75 per cent butter fat per gram. This makes them all exceptionally rich, creamy and luscious. Some of them do not undergo a ripening process, so they can also be classed as unripened cheeses. Petit Suisse is a case in point. Although it is not ripened, its fat content can vary between 60 and 75 per cent.

Other double and triple cremes are cured for about three weeks before marketing and develop a very thin, downy rind. These include Boursault, Brillat-Savarin and Excelsior. Others such as Blue Castello and Bavarian Blue have a blue veining. While double and triple cremes can vary in flavour and style, they have in common a degree of richness and creaminess not present in other cheeses.

These crèmes are delightful at any time of day, for any menu or snack. Simply spread on crusty French bread, perhaps serve with fresh fruits in season (not citrus). Fruity wines are ideal to accompany these cheeses, particularly rosé.

Brillat-Savarin (bree-YAH sah-vah-RAHN)

Brillat-Savarin is a soft, white-crusted cow's milk cheese from Normandy. It was created c. 1890 as "Excelsior" or "Délice des gourmets" ("Gourmets' delight") by the Dubuc family, near Forges-les-Eaux (Seine-Maritime). Cheese-maker Henri Androuët renamed it in the 1930s, as an homage to 18th-century French gourmet and political figure Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. It is a triple cream Brie that is luscious, creamy and faintly sour with a velvety texture. This triple-cream French cheese is similar in flavor to Boursault and makes a good substitute. For a delightful treat serve with some fig preserves on a crusty artisinal bread.

Bellétoile. - A soft-ripened triple crème, with no rind, it is easily spreadable. It comes as 5-oz. round, plain or herb-flavored.
Boursault. - Another triple crème, soft-ripened cheese available in an 8-oz. round. This cheese is very creamy almost like a mixture of Brie and heavy cream.
Excelsior. - Similar to Boursault, without spices or herbs. Contains 72 per cent butter fat and comes in an 8-oz. cylinder.
Fromage de Monsieur Fromage. - A small round, double crème, first made in Normandy about 75 years ago.
Gervais. - Usually packaged in squares or rectangles. Its texture is similar to that of American-type cream cheese, but its flavor is richer and slightly tangy.
La Bouille.- This rich, triple crème is not flavored, but has its own special tang. The 1 l-oz. round is available in a wood-chip basket.
La Bourse. - This is a triple crème, flavored with herbs and garlic. It is round and available either in 2’/2- oz. or 5-oz. portions.
Margotin. - This crème is a mixture of cow’s and goat’s milk, which makes it a less fatty, drier cheese. It is either flavored with herbs or with pepper.
Petit Suisse. - One of France’s most popular double crèmes, this cheese may contain from 60 to 75 per cent butter fat. Available in l-oz. plastic cups.
Provencal. - Another triple crème, available as a 5-oz. round cheese in a cardboard box. It is flavored either with herbs and garlic or with pepper.
Tartare. - This fresh, very creamy triple crème is only available flavored with herbs and garlic.