Chicken (or Turkey) Divan

Chicken Divan, which dates from the 1930s, is a dish made with sliced chicken or turkey meat, preferably the breast. A layer of cooked broccoli (and sometimes asparagus) is added. This is topped with a cheese or Mornay sauce, sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese and baked in a hot oven until bubbling and golden brown. Chicken Divan appears in many American cookbooks, having been popular in this country for several decades. In ''Knife and Fork in New York'' (Robert McBride, New York), Lawton Mackall, author of the renowned restaurant guide Knife and Fork in New York (1948), says that chicken Divan originated in the kitchens of a once-popular, now-defunct restaurant called Divan Parisien on East 45th Street.

Chicken Divan was named after the place of its invention, the Divan Parisien Restaurant in the New York Chatham Hotel where it was served as the signature dish in the early twentieth century. Its creator, a chef named Lagasi, created it as part of a contest, winning a small amount of money and creating the hotel's signature dish. In French, the word divan refers to a meeting place or great hall, and thus the name was chosen to imply a kind of continental elegance.

Made by layering steamed broccoli with sliced chicken breast, with a rich cheese sauce amidst the layers, it was one of those wonderful American classics that were the mainstays of department store tearooms and old-school hotel dining rooms.

Over the years, our mothers and grandmothers started substituting cream of mushroom or chicken soup in recipes that called for a white sauce. Today you will find many recipes for Chicken Divan using pre-cooked chicken breasts, prepared mayonnaise, proecessed cheese, and canned soup. Breadcrumbs are often sprinkled on top; some versions are even topped with potato chips.

After decades of sliding into disfavor (thanks to the likes of condensed soup and processed cheese), it's time to give Chicken Divan back its good name! Made with a great cheese and a true Mornay sauce, this Chicken Divan Recipe reclaims the dish's status as one of the best recipes ever for leftover chicken.

Classic Chicken Divan
from http://www.saveur.com/

In Lawton Mackall's Knife and Fork in New York (Doubleday & Company, 1949), chicken divan is described as a "runaway success dish year in, year out…sliced chicken breast on broccoli in a sherry-laced sauce of cheese and cream, browned and brought to table bubbling hot." This version is based on one in Crazy for Casseroles (The Harvard Common Press, 2003) by James Villas and was featured in Irene Sax's "The Age of Casseroles," from Saveur's December 2006 issue.

FMM: We made this and it was excellent, especially the second day. We served it over rice which worked quite well. I did find the sauce a little thin; we might try adding a little more flour for thickening. I think it was the whipped cream which thinned it out. A medium white sauce is made with 2 - 3 Tbsp. flour for each cup of liquid.

2 large boneless skinless chicken breast halves (about 1 lb.)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 large head broccoli (about 2 lbs.), stemmed and broken into 1–2-inch florets
5 tbsp. butter
1⁄4 cup flour
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup milk (some recipes use 2 cups chicken stock instead of one of stock and one of milk)
3 tbsp. sherry
1⁄8 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1⁄2 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (some recipes also use Gruyere, Swiss or Cheddar cheese)
1 cup slivered almonds (not original)
1⁄2 cup heavy cream

Season chicken with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chicken and cook, turning once, until golden brown and just cooked through, 13-15 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate; let cool slightly. Cut chicken lengthwise on the bias into 1⁄4"-thick slices and set aside.

Meanwhile, put broccoli into a large pot, cover with salted water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until barely tender, 2-3 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Preheat oven to 375°. Rub the inside of a 2-quart casserole dish with 1 tbsp. of the butter; set aside. Melt remaining 4 tbsp. butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

Gradually pour in stock and milk while whisking constantly. Cook until very thick, about 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper, sherry, nutmeg, and 1⁄4 cup of the cheese; stir until cheese melts, about 1 minute. Remove cheese sauce from heat and let cool slightly.

Arrange broccoli in the prepared dish in a single layer; sprinkle with remaining 1⁄4 cup cheese. Arrange chicken evenly over top; sprinkle with almonds. In a large bowl, beat the heavy cream to soft peaks; fold into sauce. Pour sauce over chicken. Bake, with a baking sheet underneath to catch any drips, until golden brown and bubbling, about 30 minutes.

FMM: Serve with steamed white rice on the side.

Serves 6