Vodka Sauce (see below for Scallops in Vodka Sauce)

What do you gain by adding vodka to a tomato sauce for pasta? Vodka releases flavors from the tomatoes that are only alcohol-soluble - some food flavors are water soluble, some are fat soluble, and others are alcohol soluble. The alcohol coaxes those flavors out, then disappears. But the alcohol does lend some flavor of its own accord, sort of a sweet, caramel-like flavor that translates as making the tomatoes taste sweeter.

Secondly, this dish contains cream mixed with marinara sauce or tomato paste, which are a combination unusual in Italian cooking because the acidity of the tomatoes tends to make the oil in the cream separate. The ethanol (vodka) serves as an emulsifier, allowing the water and lipids to remain mixed together (much like mustard does in a vinaigrette).

This recipe came from a discussion board on Chowhound.com about using fresh tomatoes for Vodka Sauce. Many posters agreed that the vodka should be added to the tomatoes early on for the above reason. The person posting this recipe disagrees (see next paragraph).

"This is one of the most wondrous treats of a bountiful summer harvest... by all means, make vodka sauce with fresh tomatoes; no roasting necessary! I don't like adding the vodka earlier because it just doesn't taste as good. The caramelization and vodka at the end results in the taste I enjoy best. I've experimented and adding it late just does it for me because if I add it earlier, I miss out on the opportunity for the glaze. Even so, it does work its magic well enough because I can taste the difference between added vodka and not."

Recipe from Chowhound.com message board (see below for Faith & Brian's interpretation):

1. Score, blanch, and peel tomatoes
2. Put thinly sliced garlic in pan with liberal quantity of olive oil (not extra virgin); let heat up, but don't let garlic brown
3. Add tomatoes to saucepan over low/med heat; turn it down when it starts showing signs of a simmer
4. Barely simmer over low heat for a looong time until the tomatoes come apart (I help them with a wooden spoon). Stir every couple of minutes. I usually go off and do something during this time and check on them to make sure nothing's sticking or burning
5. The water in the tomatoes will begin to boil off, leaving a pulpy looking sauce in the pan; keep a really good eye on it from this point. This stage becomes crucial.
6. Let tomatoes caramelize; there is enough sweetness in the tomatoes to do this during the summer.
7. When the sweetness begins to caramelize, throw in vodka and deglaze.
8. Give it a good stir
9. Add heavy cream.
10. Check to make sure it's warm; add red pepper [flakes] to taste.

Brian & Faith's Scallops in Vodka Sauce with Capellini (based on the above recipe)

This recipe would be also good with either shrimp or crabmeat. It could also be made without the seafood and used as a simple sauce for pasta. Penne pasta is classic when not serving with seafood.

Heat 4 Tbsp. olive oil and 1 Tbsp. butter in a large sauce pan. Sauté the scallops (and/or shrimp) with the red pepper flakes, garlic, shallot and scallions until the scallops are just about cooked - about 5 minutes. Do not overcook the scallops or they will be tough. Remove the scallops to a separate bowl.

In the meantime, drain the tomatoes, saving the juice. After the scallops have been removed, add the drained tomatoes, parsley, and salt and pepper to the pan and sauté over low heat until the tomatoes start to caramelize. This should take about 15 - 30 minutes depending on how high your heat is. As they are cooking, break the tomatoes down with a spoon.

Add the vodka to deglaze the pan, this should take about 30 seconds. Add reserved tomato juice and heat through stirring to incorporate and burn off the alcohol in the vodka. The recipe can be made ahead to this point.

When ready to eat, start the water for the pasta - cook the pasta until al dente. At the same time heat the tomato sauce until good and hot. Add cream and bring almost to a boil. Finally add the scallops; immediately cover and turn off the heat. Let it sit for a few minutes until the scallops cook through. There will be plenty of heat to cook the scallops and they won't overcook this way.

Serve over pasta with a green salad and some crusty bread.

Makes about 6 servings