Fish Stock

Also called fish fumet. Make sure the fish bones you use are from lean white-flesh fish, such as snapper, bass, tilefish, halibut, and cod, and not fatty fish - avoid salmon or trout bones, for instance. Darker-fleshed and oily fish, like salmon, tuna, and mackerel, are not usually used in a classic fumet, since they impart a strong fish flavor. When it comes to fumet, the aim is generally to lean toward freshness and delicacy, not pungent fishiness.

The wine functions in a way similar to that of lemon juice on fish, adding fresh, clean notes that help balance the fishy qualities of the stock. Fumet is cooked for a shorter time than other stocks. The short cooking time keeps the flavor light and fresh, but still extracts plenty of gelatin from the fish bones for a stock with good body. The stock will turn to a jelly when chilled.

6 pounds lean fish bones, heads, etc., soaked and well washed
2 tablespoons butter
8 ounces onions, diced
4 ounces celery, diced
4 ounces parsnips, diced
4 ounces mushroom trimmings
4 quarts cold water
1 cup dry white wine
Sachet d'epices: 6-8 stems parsley, chopped, 1 bay leaf, 1/4 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns, 1 whole clove

Place the Sachet d'epices into a 4" square of cheesecloth and tie into a sack.

Melt the butter in the bottom of a large stockpot. Add the vegetables, and place the bones on top. Cover the mixture with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit the pot. Sweat the vegetables and bones over low heat for about 5 minutes, until the bones turn opaque and release some juices. Add the wine, bring to a simmer to burn off some of the alcohol. Add the sachet, and water to cover.

Bring to a simmer, skim any scum that forms, and continue to simmer for 45 minutes. Pour through a strainer layered with cheesecloth. Cool the stock immediately in an ice-water bath, transfer to a container and refrigerate. Skim off any fat that rises to the top.