Classic Champagne Cocktail

This classic cocktail dates back to the Civil War era in the United States, when it appeared in Jerry Thomas's How to Mix Drinks; or, the Bon Vivant's Companion. Thomas' version omits the brandy or cognac and is considered to be the "classic" American version. The Champagne Cocktail was chosen by Esquire magazine as one of the top 10 cocktails of 1934; although its popularity has waned, it still has unflagging adherents. For some sophisticates, it is still the only cocktail. Many recipes today include cognac.

3 drops Angostura or Peychaud's bitters
1 sugar cube*
4 ounces chilled Champagne
1 ounce Cognac (optional)
twist of lemon

Place a sugar cube in a chilled champagne flute, lash it with 2 or 3 dashes of bitters (Angostura or Peychaud's), fill the glass with brut champagne or other, cheaper, bubbly (peasant!), and squeeze a lemon twist on top. Float the cognac on top.

* The standard 1/2 teaspoon size. Don't use loose sugar or try to crush the cube -- the whole point isn't so much to sweeten the drink as to create bubbles, which the cube will do as it slowly dissolves.

Makes 1 drink