17th Century Puddings

Also see History of Puddings

The recipes below come from John Murrell's A New Book of Cookerie published in 1615, and Hannah Woolley's The queen-like closet published in 1670.

A New Book of Cookerie, John Murrell, 1615

Puddings.

A fierced Pudding.

MJnce a Legge of Mutton, with sweet Hearbes: searce grated Bread through a Collinder, mince Dates, Currens, Razins of the Sunne being stoned, a little Oringado, cut finely, or a preserued Lemmon, a little Coriander-seeds, Nutmeg, Ginger, and Pepper: mingle all together with Milke, and Egges, raw wrought together like Paste: wrap the meate in a caull of Mutton, or of Ueale, and so you may eyther boyle or bake them. Jf you bake them, beat the yolke of an Egge with Rosewater, Sugar, and Sinamon. And when it is almost bakte draw it out, and sticke it with Sinamon and Rosemary.

A Pudding of Veale.

MJnce rawe Ueale very fine, cut some Larde, like Diamonds: mince sweet Marioram, Pennyroyall, Camomill, Winter-Sauory, Nutmeg, Pepper, Ginger, and Salt, made hot, the gut of a fat Mutton Hogge: cut it about an inch long: worke it together with store of Sinamon, and Sugar, and Barberryes, sliced Figges, blauncht Almonds, halfe a pound of Beefe Suit, most finely minst: put this into your short skinnes: set them aboyling in a Pipkin of Claret wine, with large Mace, a sliced Lemmon, and Barberryes in knots, or Grapes: this is a delicate Pudding.

A Fregesey of Egges.

BEat a dozen of Egs with Creame, Sugar, Nutmeg, Mace, Rosewater, and a Pomewater cut ouerthwart in slices: put them into the Frying-pan with sweet Butter, and the Apples first: when they be almost enough take them vp, and cleanse your Pan: put in sweet Butter, and make it hot: put in halfe the Egges and Creame at one time: stirre it with a Sawcer, or such a thing. Take it out, and put it in a Dish, put in the rest of the Egges and Creame, like the former, and then put in your Apples round about the batter. Then cast on the other side on the top of it, and keepe it from burning with sweet Butter. When it is fryed on both sides enough wring on the iuyce of an Orenge, and serue it in.

A Cambridge Pudding.

SEarce grated Bread through a Cullinder, mince it with Flower, minst Dates, Currins, Nutmeg, Sinamon, and Pepper, minst Suit, new Milke warme, fine Sugar, and Egges: take away some of their whites, worke all together. Take halfe the Pudding on the one side, and the other on the other side, and make it round like a loafe. Then take Butter, and put it in the middest of the Pudding, and the other halfe aloft. Let your liquour boyle, and throw your Pudding in, being tyed in a faire cloth: when it is boyled enough cut it in the middest, and so serue it in.

A Swanne or Goose Pudding.

STirre the bloud of a Swanne, or Goose, steepe fine Oatmeale in milke, Nutmeg, Pepper, sweet Hearbes, minst Suit: mingle all together with Rosewater, Lemmon pils minst fine, Coriander seeds, a little quantitie thereof. And this is a rule both for grated Bread-Pudding, or any other Pudding that is made to a Swanne, or Goosenecke.

A Liueridge or Hogges Pudding.

BOyle a Hogges Liuer well, let it be through colde: then grate it like Bread: grate Bread, take new Milke, the fat of the Hogge minst fine, put it to the bread, and the Liuer, the more the better, deuide it into two parts. Take store of drye Hearbes, that are very well dryed, mince them fine, put the Hearbes into one part, with Nutmeg, Mace, Pepper, Annisseedes, Rose-water, Creame, and Egs, wash the skinnes, and then fill them vp, and let them boyle enough. To the other sort put Barberryes, sliced Dates, Currins, new Milke and Egs, worke them as the other.

A Chiueridge Pudding.

LAy the fattest Guts of your Hogge in faire water and Salt, to scowre them. Take the longest and the fattest gut, begin at the middest of the gut, and stuf it with Nutmeg, Sugar, Ginger, Pepper, and sliced Dates, boyle it and serue it to the Table.

A Ryce Pudding.

STeep it in faire water all night: then boyle it in new Milke, and draine out the Milke through a Cullinder: mince beefe Suit handsomely, but not too small, and put it into the Rice, and parboyld Currins, yolkes of new layd Egges, Nutmeg, Sinamon, Sugar, and Barberryes: mingle all together: wash your scoured guttes, and stuffe them with the aforesaid pulp: parboyle them, and let them coole.

A Florentine of Veale.

MJnce colde Ueale fine, take grated Bread, Currins, Dates, Sugar, Nutmeg, Pepper, two or three Egges, and Rosewater: mingle all well together, and put it on a Chafing-dish of coles, stirre them till they be warme, and then put some betweene two sheetes of puft-paste, and bake it, put the rest vpon slices of a white loafe and frye it in a Frying-pan, washt before with the yolke of an Egge: serue it with Sinamon and Ginger, at the second course.

A Marrow toast.

MJnce colde parboyld Ueale, and Suit very fine, and sweet Hearbs each by themselues, and then mingle them together with Sugar, Nutmeg, Sinamon, Rosewater, grated bread, the yolkes of two or three new layd Egges: open the minst meat, and couer it with the marrow. Then put your toast into the Pipkin with the vppermost of some strong broth: let it boyle with large Mace, a Fagot of sweet hearbs, scum them passing cleane, and let them boyle almost drye. Then take Potato-rootes boyld, or Chest-nuts, Skirrootes, or Almonds, boyled in white Wine, and for want of Wine you may take Uergis and Sugar.

Another in a Frying-pan.

TAke the Marrow whole out of the bone, so neere as you can: ten Oysters is a fit proportion, for that Marrow being parboyld, and bearded, and cut in small pieces. Put in a little yong Time Pennyroyal, and Parsley, minst fine: worke all together like batter. Then roule your Marrow within that, and season it with Pepper, Salt, and Nutmeg. Then make it in little Pasteyes with fine Paste: some like Peasecods: fry them, shaue on Sugar, and serue them in.

A Pudding stued betweene two Dishes.

TAke the yolkes of three Egges, and the white of one, halfe a dozen spoonefuls of sweet Creame, a Nutmeg grated, a few Cloaues and mace, a quarter of a pound of Beefe Suit minst small, a quarter of a pound of Currens, temper it like a Pudding with grated bread, and a spoonefull of Rosewater. Then take a Kell of Ueale, cut it in square pieces like Trenchers, lay three spoonefuls of the batter vpon one side, then roule it vp in the Cawle: pin one side ouer the other with two small prickes, and tie each end with a threed. You may put two, three, or foure of them in a Dish, then take halfe a pinte of strong Mutton broth, and halfe a dozen spoonefuls of Uinegar, three or foure blades of large Mace, and an Ounce of Sugar. Make this broth to boyle vpon a Chafingdish of coales, and then put in your Pudding: when it boyles couer it with an other Dish, and let it stue a quarter of an houre longer. Turne them for burning, then take vp your Pudding, and lay it vpon sippets, and poure the broth vpon the toppe. Garnish your Dish with the coare of a Lemmon, and Barberryes: serue them hot, eyther at Dinner or Supper.

To make French puffes with greene Hearbes.

TAke Spinage, Parsley, Endife, a sprigge or two of Sauory: mince them very fine: season them with Nutmeg, Ginger, and Sugar. Wet them with Egges, according to the quantitie of the Hearbes, more or lesse. Then take the coare of a Lemmon, cut it in round slices very thinne: put to euery slice of your Lemmon one spoonefull of this stuffe. Then frye it with sweet Lard in a Frying panne as you frye Egges, and serue them with sippets or without, sprinckle them eyther with white Wine or Sacke, or any other Wine, sauing Rennish Wine. Serue them eyther at Dinner or Supper

Dropt Razins.

TAke the fayrest Razins of the Sunne, slit them on one side: lay them open, as round and as broad as you can. Then take of the aforesayd hearbes minst, and seasoned, and lay betwixt two Razins as many as you can close betwixt them. Take halfe a spoonefull of the foresayd stuffe, that you [<yon] fryed your Lemons with: fry them browne.

A fond Pudding.

TAke eyther Mutton, Ueale, or Lambe, roast or raw, but raw is better. Mince it fine with Beefe Suit, take Spinage, Parsley, Marigold, Endiffe, a sprig of Time, and a sprig of Sauory: chop them fine, and season them with Nutmeg, Sugar, minst Dates: take Currins, and grated bread, the yolkes of three or foure new laid Egges, a spoonefull or two of Rosewater, as much Uergis: worke them vp like Birds, Beasts, Fishes, Peares, or what you will. Fry them, or bake them, and serue them vpon sippets, with Uergis, or white Wine, Butter, and Sugar: serue them eyther at Dinner or Supper.

To make Puffes, on the English fashion.

TAke new Milke curds, presse out the Whay cleane, take the yolkes of three Egges, and the white of one, fine Wheat-floure, and mingle amongst your Curdes. Season it with Nutmeg, Sugar, and Rosewater, mingle all together. Butter a fayre white Paper, lay a spoonefull at once vpon it, set them into a warme Ouen, not ouer hot, when you see them rise as high as a halfe peny loafe, then take Rosewater, and Butter, and indale them ouer: scrape on Sugar, and set them in the Ouen againe, vntil they be dryed at the tops like yce. Then take them out, and serue them vpon a Plate, either at Dinner or Supper.

To make a Pudding in a Frying-panne.

TAke foure Egges, two spoonefuls of Rosewater, Nutmeg grated, Sugar, grated Bread, the quantitie of a penny Loafe, halfe a pound of Beefe Suit minst fine: worke them as stiffe as a Pudding with your hand, and put it in a Frying-pan with sweet Butter, frye it browne, cut it in quarters, and serue it hot, eyther at Dinner or Supper. Jf it be on a fasting day leaue out the Suit, and the Currens, and put in two or three Pomewaters minst small, or any other soft Apple that hath a good relish.

To make Apple pufs.

TAke a Pomewater or any other Apple that is not hard, or harsh in taste: mince it small with a dozen or twenty Razins of the Sunne: wet the Apples in two Egges, beat them all together with the backe of a Knife, or a Spoone. Season them with Nutmeg, Rosewater, Sugar, and Ginger: drop them into a Frying-pan with a Spoone, frye them like Egges, wring on the iuyce of an Orenge, or Lemmon, and serue them in.

To make Kicks-Hawes.

TAke the Kidney of a Ueale, or Lambe, or if you haue neither of both, then take the Eare of a Mutton, fat and all. Boyle it, and mince it fine: season it with Nutmeg, Pepper, and Salt. Then take two or three Egges, a spoonefull of Rosewater, two or three spoonefuls of Sack, as much grated Bread, as will worke them like Lithpaste. Then floure your moulds, and fill them with that paste: then roule a thinne sheet of paste, wet it and couer it ouer: frye them, and turne them into small Dishes, and keepe them warme in the Ouen, serue them at Dinner, or Supper. Jf you will bake them then you may turne them into the Dish raw, out of your moulds, and Jce them with Rosewater and Sugar, and set them in the Ouen, when your Pyes are halfe bakte.

To make some Kickshawes in Paste, to Frye or Bake, in what forme you please.

MAke some short puftpaste, rowle it thinne: if you haue any moulds you may worke it vpon your moulds, with the pulp of Pippins, seasoned with Sinamon, Ginger, Sugar, and Rosewater, close them vp, and bake them, or frye them: or you may fill them with Gooseberryes, seasoned with Sugar, Sinamon, Ginger, and Nutmeg: rowle them vp in yolkes of Egs, and it will keepe your Marrow being boyled, from melting away, or you may fill them with Curds, boyled vp with whites of Egges, and Creame, or yellow with the yolkes, and Cream, and it will be a tender Curde: but you must season the Curd with parboyld Currins, three or foure sliced Dates put into it, or sixe bits of Marrow, as big as halfe a Walnut: put in some small pieces of Almond-paste, Sugar, Rosewater, and Nutmeg. And this will serue for any of these Kickeshawes, eyther to bake, or for a Florentine in puftpaste: any of these you may frye or bake, for Dinner or Supper.

To make an Italian Pudding.

TAke a Penny white Loafe, pare off the crust, and cut it in square pieces like vnto great Dyes, mince a pound of Beefe Suit small: take halfe a pound of Razins of the Sunne, stone them and mingle them together, and season them with Sugar, Rosewater, and Nutmegge, wet these things in foure Egges, and stirre them very tenderly for breaking the Bread: then put it into a Dish, and pricke three or foure pieces of Marrow, and some sliced Dates: put it into an Ouen hot enough for a Chewet: if your Ouen be too hot, it will burne: if too colde, it will be heauy: when it is bakte scrape on Sugar, and serue it hot at dinner, but not at Supper.

To boyle a Rack of Veale on the French fashion.

CUt it into Steakes, cut a Carrot, or Turnup in pieces, like Diamonds, and put them into a Pipkin with a pinte of white Wine, Parsley bound in a Fagot, a little Rosemary, and large Mace, and a sticke of Sinamon: pare a Lemmon, or Orenge, and take a little grose Pepper, halfe a pound of Butter: boyle all together vntill they be enough: when you haue done, put in a little Sugar, and Uergis. Garnish your Dish as you list.

To fearce a Legge of Lambe, on the French fashion.

TAke the Flesh out of t'hinside, and leaue the skinne whole, mince it fine with Suit: take grated Bread, minst Orenge pill, sliced Nutmeg, Calander seedes, Barberryes pickt, a little Pepper: worke all together with yolks of Egges, like a Pudding, and put it in againe. Jf you want a Cawle of Mutton to close it with: then take the yolk, of an Egge, and smeare it all ouer, and it will hold it fast. Then put it in a Dish raw, and set it vpright, and put a little Butter into the Dish, and set the Dish into the Ouen: put to the aforesaid things, Sugar, Currens, and sliced Dates, Salt, and Uergis. When it goeth to the Table, strow it with yolks and Parsley, eyther of them minst by it selfe.

To hash Deere, Sheepe, or Calues tongues, on the French fashion.

BOyle, Blanch, and Larde them, sticke them with Cloues and Rosemary, and put them on a Spit vntill they be halfe roasted. Then put them into a Pipkin with Claret Wine, Sinamon, Ginger, Sugar, sliced Lemmon, a few Carraway-seeds, and large Mace. Boyle all together and serue them in with fryed toasts.

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The queen-like closet, Hannah Wolley, 1670

The queen-like closet; or, Rich cabinet stored with all manner of rare receipts for preserving, candying & cookery. By Hannah Wolley. Woolley, Hannah, fl. 1670., Woolley, Hannah, fl. 1670.

Hannah Woolley has several more pudding recipes other than those here.

LXXIV. To make the Orange Pudding.

Take the rind of a small one pared very thin, and boiled in several waters, and beaten very fine in a Mortar, then put to it four Ounces of fine Sugar, and four Ounces of fresh Butter, and the Yolks of six Eggs, and a little salt, beat it together in the Mor∣tar till the Oven heats, and so butter a dish and bake it, but not too much; strew Sugar on it and serve it to the Table, Bake it in Puff-Past.

CCLXVII. To make fine Black Pud∣dings.

Take the Blood of a Hog, and strain it, and let it stand to settle, putting in a little Salt while it is warm, then pour off the water on the top of the Blood, and put so much Oatmeal as you think fit, let it stand all night, then put in eight Eggs beaten very well, as much Cream as you think fit, one Nutmeg or more grated, some Pennyroyal and other Herbs shred small, good store of Beef Sewet shred very small, and a little more Salt, mix these very well together, and then have your Guts very well scoured, and scraped with the back of a Knife, fill them but not too full, then when you have tyed them fast, wash them in fair water, and let your water boil when they go in, then boil them half an hour, then stir them with the handle of a Ladle and take them up and lay them upon clean straw, and prick them with a Needle, and when they are a little cool put them into the boiling water again, and boil them till they are enough.

CCLXVIII. To make the best Almond-Puddings.

Take a quart of thick Cream and boil it a while with whole Spice, then put in half a pound of sweet Almonds blanched and beat∣en to a Paste with Rosewater, boil these to∣gether till it will come from the bottom of the Posnet, continually stirring it for fear it burn:

Then put it out, and when it is cool, put in twelve yolks of Eggs, and six Whites, some Marrow in big Bits, or Beef Suet shred small, as much Sugar as you think fit, then fill your Guts being clean scraped; you may colour some of them if you please, and into some put plumped Currans, and boil them just as you do the other.

CCLIX. To make a Rice Pudding to bake.

Take three Pints of Milk or more, and put therein a quarter of a pound of Rice, clean washed and picked, then set them o∣ver the fire, and let them warm together, and often stir them with a wooden Spoon, because that will not scrape too hard at the bottom, to make it burn, then let it boil till it be very thick, then take it off and let it cool, then put in a little Salt, some beaten Spice, some Raisins and Currans, and some Marrow, or Beef Suet shred very small, then butter your Pan, and so bake it, but not too much.

CCLXX. To make a Pudding of wild Curds.

Take wild Curds and Cream with them, put thereto Eggs, both yolks and whites, Rosewater, Sugar, and beaten Spice with some Raisins and Currans, and some Mar∣row, and a little salt, then butter a Pan, and bake it.

CCLXXI. To make Pudding of Plum-Cake.

Slice your Cake into some Cream or Milk, and boil it, and when it is cold, put in Eggs, Sugar, a little Salt and some Mar∣row, so butter a Pan and bake it, or fill guts with it.

CCLXXII. To make Bisket Pudding.

Take Naples Biskets and cut them into Milk, and boil it, then put in Egg, Spice, Sugar, Marrow, and a little Salt, and so boil it and bake it.

CCIV. To make Naples Bisket.

Take four Ounces of Pine Apple seeds, two Ounces of sweet Almonds blanched, the Whites of two Eggs, one spoonful of Ale-Yeast, one spoonful of Rice Flower, one spoonful of sweet Cream, beat all these to∣gether in a Mortar, then adde to it Musk or Ambergreece, drop it upon a Pie-Plate, and make it in what shape you please, and so bake it.

CCLXXII. To make a dry Oatmeal Pudding.

Take your Oatmeal well picked, and put into it a little salt, some Raisins and Cur∣rans, and some beaten spice, and good store of Beef Suet finely shred, so tie it up hard in a Cloth, and let your water boil when you put it in, and let it boil very well; if you would butter it, then leave out the Su∣et; and if you would leave out the Fruit, then put in sweet herbs good store.

CCLXXIII. To make Almond Pud∣dings a different way from the other.

Take two Manchets and grate them, then scald them in some Cream, then put in some Almonds blanched and beaten as you do o∣ther, with Rosewater, let there be about half a Pound, then put in eight Eggs well beaten, some Spice, Sugar, Salt and Mar∣row, and having your Guts well stowred and scraped, fill them, but not too full, and boil them as you do the other, or bake it if you please; Currans will do well in it.

CCLXXIV. To make a Quaking Pudding.

This is essentially a boiled egg custard with breadcrumbs or flour to keep it together.

Take Grated Bread, a little Flower, Su∣gar, Salt, beaten Spice, and store of Eggs well beaten, mix these well, and beat them together, then dip a clean Cloth in hot wa∣ter, and flower it over, and let one hold it at the four corners till you put it in, so tie it up hard, and let your Water boil when you put it in, then boil it for one hour, and serve it in with Sack, Sugar and Butter.

CCLXXIX. To make a green Pudding to Butter.

Take a Quart of Cream and boil it, then put in twelve Eggs, yolks and whites well beaten, and one Manchet grated small, a little salt, beaten spice, and some Sugar:

Then colour it well with some Iuice of Spinage, or if you will have it yellow, colour it with Saffron, so boil it in a wet Cloth flowred as before, and serve it in with Wine, Sugar and Butter, and stick it with blanch∣ed Almonds split in halves, and poure the sauce over it, and it will look like a Hedg∣hog.

You may at some time stick it with Can∣died Orange Pill or Limon Pill, or Eringo Roots Candied, you may sometimes strew on some Caroway Comfits, and if you will bake it, then put in some Marrow, and some Dates cut small, thus you have many Puddings taught in one.

CCLXXX. To make a Pudding of a Hogs Liver.

Take your Liver and boil it in water and salt, but not too much;

Then beat it fine in a Mortar, and put to it one Quart of Cream; a little Salt, Rose∣water, Sugar, beaten Spice and Currans, with six Eggs beaten very well: mix it well.

And if you bake it, put in Marrow, or if you boil it in Skins.

But if you boil it in a Cloth, then leave it out; and Butter it when it is boiled.

CCLXXXI. To make a Rasberry Pud∣ding.

Take a Quart of Cream and boil it with whole Spice a while, then put in some grated Bread, and cover it off the Fire, that it may scald a little; then put in eight Eggs well beaten, and sweeten it with Sugar; then put in a Pint or more of whole Rasber∣ries, and so boil it in a Cloth, and take heed you do not boil it too much, then serve it in with Wine, Butter and Sugar.

You may sometimes leave out the Ras∣berries, and put in Cowslip Flowers, or Goosberries.

CCLXXXIII. To make a Pudding to rost.

Take a Pint of Cream, seald a little gra∣ted Bread in it, then put in three Eggs beat∣en, a little Flower, Currans, beaten Spice, Sewet, Sugar and Salt, with some Beef Sew∣et finely shred, make it pretty stiff, and wrap it in a Lambs Caul, and rost it on a Spit with a Loin of Lamb, if you please, you may put in a little Rosewater.

XXXV. To make an Almond Pudding to be baked and Iced over.

Take a pound of Almonds blanched and beaten with Rosewater, the Yolks and Whites of twelve Eggs well beaten and strained, then put in Sugar, beaten Spice and Marrow, with a little Salt, not in too hot an Oven let this be baked; when it is baked, stick it full of blanched Almonds, and Ice it over with Sugar, Rosewater, and the White of an Egg beaten together, then set it into the Oven again, that the Ice may rise and dry, then serve it to the Table with fine Sugar strewed upon the brims of the Dish.

LX. To make a hasty Pudding.

Take one quart of Cream and boil it, then put in two Manchets grated, and one pound almost of Currans plumped, a little Salt, Nutmeg and Sugar, and a liitle Rose∣water, and so let them boil together, stirring them continually over the Fire, till you see the butter arise from the Cream, and then poure it into a Dish and serve it in with fine Sugar strewed on the brims of the Dish.

LXXXVIII. To make a Steak-Pie with Puddings in it.

Lay your Paste ready in your Pan, and lay some butter in the bottom, then lay a Neck of Mutton cut into steaks thereon, then take some of the best of a Leg of Mut∣ton minced small, with as much Beef Sewet as Mutton; season it with beaten Spice and Salt, and a little Wine, Apples shred small, a little Limon Pill, a little Verjuice and Su∣gar, them put in some Currans, and when they are well mixed, make it into Balls with the yolks of Eggs, and lay them upon the steaks, then put in some Butter, and close •our Pie and bake it, and serve it in hot.