Hungarian Goulash
Goulash is a (sometimes) spicy dish, originally from Hungary, usually made of beef, onions, red peppers, and paprika powder. Its name comes from Hungarian gulyás (pronounced goo-yash), the word for a cattle stockman or herdsman. Hungarian Goulash dates back to the 9th century Magyar shepherds of the area, before the existence of Hungary and played a key role in the early pastoral diet.
In Hungary, gulyás is traditionally prepared as a soup. Meat is cut into chunks, seasoned with salt, pepper and paprika, and then browned in a pot with oil. Shank, shin or shoulder is used — goulash derives its thickness from tough, well-exercised muscles rich in collagen, which is converted to gelatin during the cooking process. Sliced onions, hot red peppers and garlic are added. After the meat is browned, water or stock is added and left to simmer. Some finely diced potatoes may be added to provide starch as they cook, making the soup thicker and smoother. Other herbs and spices may also be added, especially bay leaf, thyme and ground caraway seeds. A small amount of white wine or a very little wine vinegar can also be added near the end of cooking to round the taste.
Some cook books suggest using flour or cornstarch to thicken the soup, which produces a starchy texture and a blander taste. Others suggest using generous amounts of tomatoes for colour and taste. A small amount of tomatoes in the stock that is used, or a drop of tomato puree, may improve the taste and texture, but gulyás is a paprika-based dish and the taste of tomatoes should not be discernible. Many Hungarian chefs consider tomatoes to be absolutely forbidden in gulyás and they also feel that if they cook a stew instead of a soup, it should only be thickened by finely chopped potatoes, which must be simmered along with the meat.
Hungarian Beef Goulash
Recipe courtesy Tyler Florence
4 slices bacon, chopped
3 pounds boneless beef shank, trimmed and cut into 2-inch cubes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 roasted red bell peppers, peeled and sliced
3 tablespoons Hungarian sweet paprika
2 teaspoons caraway seeds, toasted and ground
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 (15-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, hand crushed
6 cups low-sodium beef broth
4 russet potatoes, peeled and thickly sliced
1/2 cup sour cream
Chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
Place a large heavy pot over medium heat and add the bacon. Fry for about 5 minutes until crisp and remove to a paper towel and reserve. Add the beef to the hot bacon fat and brown it evenly on all sides, turning with tongs; season generously with salt and pepper. While the beef is searing, sprinkle the flour evenly in the pot and continue to stir to dissolve any clumps. Add a little oil if necessary to keep the meat from sticking to the bottom of the pot.
Toss in the onions, garlic, roasted peppers, paprika, and caraway; cook and stir for 2 minutes until fragrant. Stir in the vinegar, tomatoes, and broth. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook for 1 hour, covered, stirring occasionally.
Add the potatoes. Crumble the reserved bacon into the stew and continue to simmer for 30 minutes, partially covered, until the potatoes are tender. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and stir the sour cream into the goulash just before serving. Garnish with the chopped parsley.
Serve with Spaetzle or other egg noodle.Hungarian Beef Goulash
Recipe courtesy Wolfgang Puck, 2001
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 cups onions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon sugar
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon caraway seeds, toasted and ground
1 1/2 tablespoons sweet paprika
1 teaspoon spicy paprika
2 tablespoons minced fresh marjoram leaves
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
4 cups chicken stock
2 1/2 pounds beef shank, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Spaetzle
In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil and saute the onions and sugar until caramelized. Add the garlic and caraway seed. Cook for 1 minute. Add the sweet and sharp paprika, marjoram, thyme, and bay leaf. Saute another minute, until fragrant. Add the tomato paste. Deglaze with the vinegar and the stock and add the pieces of beef shank, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook until very tender, about 1 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally.
Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve with Spaetzle on the side.
